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“For me, fashion is the body,” Alaïa said in 1982. The rest of us took a little while to catch up, but we certainly got there in the end. Since the mid-80s, the skin and curve and flesh and muscle of women’s bodies have been the beating heart of how we want to look, with the role of fabric being to enhance that. That was how Alaïa saw it from the start. “I make clothes, women make fashion,” he would say, or: “I am not a designer, I am a couturier.” What he was saying, every time, was that it was the body that mattered most. Naomi Campbell wearing a skirt by Azzedine Alaia in 1989. Photograph: Patrick Demarchelier/Conde Nast via Getty Images When I say the body, I mean sex, of course. People can get very pious, in a well-meaning way, talking about designers who have died. There have been many righteous eulogies about Alaïa staying up all night perfecting a sleeve, breathless tales of weddings delayed while he stitched the bridesmaids into their dresses, morality lectures about how close he came to giving up on his light-as-air honeycomb knit before he mastered the technique. All of which is laudable and historically significant but slightly misses the point, which is that Alaïa put modern erotica into fashion .
For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jan/23/how-azzedine-alaia-changed-the-way-we-see-womens-bodies